Don’t make the line any longer than that. The longer the line, the more sag the line will have. [1] X Research source Avoid placing your clothesline under trees that drip sap, leaves, or other material. You also want to avoid placing your clothesline under trees with a lot of birds. [2] X Research source If you want to dry colored clothes, make sure there is a spot in the shade so the colors don’t fade. You can spread clotheslines between multiple posts or multiple trees if you plan on drying many loads at one time.

The wood for your posts need to be taller than how high you want the poles. Part of the pole will be in ground. For a 6 feet (1. 8 m). clothesline, you will need at least wood that is 8 ft. tall.

2- 4 x 4 x 10′ treated wood posts 2- 2 x 2 x 8′ treated wood posts 8 - 1/4″ x 6″ hot dip galvanized lag screws (and washers) 2 - 1/4” x 8” galvanized lag bolts 8 – eye hooks 2 – clothesline tighteners 2 – quick links 100 ft clothesline 2 bags Quikrete[3] X Research source

Miter saw Drill and bits Clamps Post level Post hole diggers Bucket (optional)

If you live in a climate that experiences a deep freeze in the winter, make sure to put your posts below the freeze line so they don’t shift. Decide if that is 3 or 4 feet (0. 91 or 1. 2 m). or more. [4] X Research source You may also need to bury the post deeper in the ground if you live in an area with sandy or unstable soil.

That should give you one 4 feet (1. 2 m). crossbeam and two 2 feet (0. 61 m). braces for each clothesline post. Cut 45 degree angles into the ends of the 2 feet (0. 61 m). beams. To do this, adjust your miter saw to the 45 angle. These beams will be the braces. Make sure you double check your angles before cutting the wood. Messing up the angle means you will have to get another piece of wood. The crosspiece can be around 3 feet (0. 9 m). long if you want. You can also cut the ends of the crosspiece at an angle if you don’t want flat edges.

Connect the crossbeam to the post with the lag bolt. When complete, the crossbeam will sit on top of the post, in the shape of a T.

The braces will fit snugly against the beam and post because of the angle you cut into each end. Clamp the wooden braces in place to stabilize them. [5] X Research source Drill the holes into the beams and screw in the bolts.

You can use the handle of your screwdriver to twist the hooks into the wood. You may want to install 3 eye hooks instead of 4 depending on the length of your crossbeam. [6] X Research source

Before you dig any holes in your yard, double check to make sure there are no gas, water, cable, or telephone lines in the area where you are digging.

You may want to pour the bag out in stages. This may make it easier to mix and keep the post level. As you add the concrete, continue to tamp it down with each new section of concrete so that everything is as compact as possible. [9] X Research source You can also mix the concrete in buckets before you pour it into the holes. Use rope or heavy string to keep the post straight while the concrete dries.

If your posts are too far apart, you might have to buy two packs 100 feet (30. 5 m). cloth clothesline and string one through each side. Cut off the excess when you’re finished. If you want to prevent frayed ends, tape the ends of the rope or burn them with a cigarette lighter.

Pull the rope through the tightener. Tighten the rope. Trim any excess rope. Each rope should go through 4 eye hooks in all: one on the inside and one on the outside on each post.

Wrap the clothesline around both pulleys on either post. Tie one end of the rope to the hook on the end of a tightener, and pull the other end of the rope through the tightener. You will have a movable, tight loop of rope threaded through each pulley. [10] X Research source Make sure to knot both ends securely, and cut off any excess rope.