Make sure you jot your measurements down. You’ll need to refer back to them later while you’re cutting the panel for your door.
A solid piece of plywood will create a door with a much sturdier construction than the hollow-bodied variety installed in most homes.
Use a ruler or straight edge to confirm that your lines are straight and precise. Otherwise, you could end up with a door that doesn’t fit!
Laying a separate piece of lumber along your measurement lines will ensure cleaner cuts and help prevent mistakes. The standard size of an interior door is 80 inches (200 cm) x 24–30 inches (61–76 cm).
You may have to clamp or brace the panel against another object to hold it steady while you sand the edges. At this point, you can either move on to painting and installing the mounting hardware if you’re satisfied with a plain, flat door, or cut a few more pieces of plywood to add textural accents to your blank panel.
Keep in mind that you’ll need to put stiles and rails on both sides of the door. Consider buying a second, smaller sheet of plywood to make sure you’ll have enough and account for possible waste.
It may help to clamp the stiles to the door panel using a vice or a pair of table clamps. Not only will this keep pressure on the plywood pieces while the adhesive sets, it will also leave you with both hands free. Once the adhesive has set completely, turn the panel over and attach the 2 remaining stile pieces to the opposite side.
Measure and cut each of your rails separately to make sure they all come out the same size.
To make sure your center rail is situated correctly, draw a line widthwise through the midpoint of the panel, or the 40 in (100 cm) mark, and use it as a reference when setting and gluing the rail. Use a heavy object with a flat bottom to serve as a makeshift clamp and maintain pressure on the center rails.
Saw the end of each section of trim at a 45-degree angle. That way, all of the pieces will fit together easily with no need to adjust their length. You can also use 1. 25 in (3. 2 cm) finishing nails in addition to your construction adhesive to provide added security.
Most water-based paints take about 24 hours to dry completely. If you opt to stain your door instead, it should be ready for a follow-up coat in 12-24 hours, depending on the product you’re using. [12] X Research source Plan on using at least 2 coats to get the smoothest, most uniform finish possible.
Exposure to the elements could cause your door to warp, crack, or split over time, ruining all of your hard work. Even if you’ll be hanging your door inside, a clear coat will prevent its finish from peeling or fading and keep it looking new for years to come. Sealants and varnishes tend to give off potent fumes. If possible, crack a window or leave nearby doors open to improve the ventilation in your workspace. [14] X Research source
If your latch hardware doesn’t sit flush with the edge of the door, you may need to cut a shallow mortise for it by chiseling out the area around it. This will allow it to seat directly into the wood. [16] X Research source Be sure to insert the latch so that the rounded edge faces the door jamb. If you put it in backwards, you’ll have to turn the knob or handle all the way to get the door to close. If you’re installing lever-type door hardware, make sure that it’s right-side-up.
If there aren’t already hinges in the doorway where you’re hanging your door, you’ll need to install both sets at the same time. Consult a door installation guide or online hinge calculator to determine exactly where your door frame hinges need to go, and how far apart they should be spaced. [18] X Research source
Create improvised shims from wood scraps or folded pieces of cardboard to hold the door at the correct height while you fit the hinges together. [20] X Research source Once you’ve hung your door successfully, open and close it a few times to make sure it moves smoothly on its hinges. If your feel any unusual resistance, you may need to take it down and try again.
