After this, you should have a tall tube that slides snugly over you with a bit of foam extending above your head. Be careful around hot glue and ask someone to help you if you are worried about hurting yourself.
Cut away bumps and extra foam as much as you can, as this will only make the fursuit head look bumpy and uneven on top.
This gives you an idea of where the rest of the features will go, as you can place the muzzle and ears relative to the eyes. Wear the tube and make a dot where your eyes are located to cut more accurately-located eye holes. If you can’t see through the foam, poke the foam gently to feel where your eyes are located.
Use a long piece of shaped foam first for the base layer of the eyebrow ridge, then cut smaller shapes to round out the brow. This allows you to develop a thick brow above the eyes that juts out slightly from the forehead. Eyebrow ridges are great for showing emotion on your fursuit head. Angle them in such a way that your character portrays its feelings through its eyes!
Cut out a conical shape from foam by making a triangle with a rounded base, then bend the shape onto the back-middle area of the head and assess where you need to cut to make it fit your character’s animal. Glue down the bottom of the ears with hot glue. [6] X Research source Look at the animal you want to portray and figure out how they show their emotions through their ears. For example, an alert dog’s ears are perked up in the middle of its head, while a tired dog will have drooping ears on each side of its head. Consider looking at a template online to find the best approach for cutting out convincing ears.
Layer pieces of foam around the part of the muzzle that connects to the head to blend it in naturally.
If you have very thick foam available (around 2–4 inches (5. 1–10. 2 cm) thick), it is easier to carve out the entire shape of the muzzle at once and attach it.
Don’t make the cheeks poke out too far from the head as the fur you add later on will add a lot of depth to the head.
Plastic wrap and duct tape make it simple to measure fur later on, as you can remove it from the base mask to cut the fur to the right size. Mark the direction of fur as well as the type of fur on the duct tape. Use a small arrow to indicate which way the fur will flow off of the head so you can apply it correctly later on.
Don’t worry if you have to cut a piece of duct tape to get it to lay flat — as long as the fur is cut to the flattened shape, it will seamlessly fold back into place on your foam base. Mark the underside of each outlined piece of fur with its location on the head so you remember where to apply each piece later on.
If you cut folds in the duct tape to make them lay flat, sew these cuts back together in your fur to return the flattened shape to its original, 3D form.
The ears can be tricky if the mask is already glued to the eyebrow ridge — apply hot glue all around the edges of the ears and eyebrow ridge at the same time, then slot the foam ears into the ear holes of the fur mask and press down on both the ears and eyebrow ridge. It’s best to do the muzzle first, then the cheeks and side of the face, then the eyebrow ridge and ears, and finish with the back of the head.
Always shave away less than you think at first, as you can shave more later on if it’s still too long, but you can’t add fur back once it’s cut away!
You can also sew these features to the fur mask before glueing it down, which can make them more secure and less likely to fall off. Also, you will need to make the eyes. Simply paint on some fabric mesh!
