An expensive suit can be bought which already has a good deal of camouflage built in. It will likely look like a basic camo with a flap on it. Cheaper suits can also be bought which only break up your outline (no camo, only a solid color), but with a few branches and such from your surrounding attached, it can blend in quite nicely. Basic ghillie suits can be bought that consist of a net poncho with flaps attached to it. This is a great start as it breaks up your outline and gives you many locations to attach items to it. Military flight suits and BDU’s (Battle Dress Uniform) work very well. You might re-purpose a durable mechanic’s suit or similar work outfit. Always choose base colors that will match the terrain you are trying to hide in. In a brush desert environment, a heavy green woodland suit stands out almost as badly as a city-dressed person. [2] X Research source
Another way to apply the mesh is to glue it onto the suit. Take mesh netting that’s roughly the same size as the suit and apply glue to shoe glue to corners of the netting every couple inches. Allow to dry. With a pair of scissors, cut the mesh off around the suit, being careful not accidentally cut into parts of the suit proper. When you’re done, the mesh netting shouldn’t raise off the suit more than 2 inches (5. 1 cm) at any one point.
Cut a large (~2’x5’) rectangle out of a burlap sack. Make a cut along the upper or lower seam so that the burlap material is ready to be loosened. Sit down, anchor the sides of the burlap with your two heels, and start pulling out the burlap fibers that are running horizontal to you. Pull out enough horizontal fabric until the remaining vertical fabric is roughly the same length as the horizontal fabric you’ve already pulled out. When it is, take a scissor and cut the fibers off from the sack. Place these along with the rest of the fibers you’ve shorn from the sack. Shoot to get your burlap strands about 7" to 14" in length.
Once the jute strands are dyed, run them through cold water until the water starts coming out clear. Set the strands out to dry in the sun. Don’t be alarmed if the colors turn out darker right out of the dye. While they’re still damp, the dye tends to look darker. As it dries, the color turns lighter. Let the jute dry completely before making a determination about the color. If you think the color is too dark and not realistic, you can submerge the fabric in a water solution diluted with bleach. Start off with a 1:10 bleach to water ratio to begin with and adjust from there.
You want to try to randomize colors to avoid over saturation of one type of color in one spot. Work with clumps of a single color at a time, and place them as randomly on the suit as possible. Remember, the longer the strands, the less of a “natural terrain” look you will have.
After you’ve decided on the form of your hood, use the same approach to tie clumps of jute to the suit that you used in previous steps. Weave a bit of organic material, such as shrubbery, grass, or even sticks into the mesh. Make sure that the amount of jute on the hood is proportional to the amount of jute on the suit. Lay the hood over the suit itself and see if the jute blends in. If it looks a little light, add more jute; if it looks a little heavy, take some off.
Attach more items to the back of the suit than the front; sneaking in a ghillie suit usually involves crawling. Items on your stomach or chest as you belly-crawl will likely get damaged or make noise. Attach wider items around your head and neck. The human head is the most commonly identified part of the body and the shoulders and neck exaggerate the head. When standing still, your outline must be broken to prevent easy identification.
