Select 4140 chrome moly steel. Chrome moly steel is the least expensive alternative. It also is easier to chemically blacken, if desired, to give a traditional look to the barrel. Decide on 416 stainless steel. Stainless steel is more expensive than chrome moly Steel. Stainless steel barrels have have a longer service life and are result in a more accurate firearm than do chrome moly steel barrels.
Make the first rifling groove. Insert a tube mounted with the rifling hook cutter box down the bore of the barrel. Draw the rifling hook cutter box through the bore while rotating the barrel at a rate recommended by the expert to give the desired rifling spin. Add more rifling grooves. Index the barrel to the starting position for the next groove. Draw the rifling hook cutter box through the bore while rotating the barrel at a rate recommended by the expert to give the desired rifling spin. Finish the rifling. Repeat passes through the bore with the rifling hook cutter box as needed.
Insert the barrel lapping rod into the bore until it is about 4 inches (101. 6 mm) from 1 end of the bore. Pour molten lead into the end of the bore and allow it to harden. Push the lap out of the barrel. Push the lapping rod forward until the now solidified lead slug, called the lead lap, is exposed. Cover the lead lap with lapping paste, which is similar to valve grinding paste. Complete the lapping. Run the lead lap up and down the length of the barrel about 50 times, applying more lapping paste as necessary.
