Use a measuring tape for this. This is just the base of your mask, so plain printer paper will work the best. You will trace the final shape onto nicer paper later on. Most paper masks are masquerade style, so they only cover the top half of your face.
Make the mask curve upward towards the bottom edge of the fold. This will create a gap for your nose and make the mask more comfortable to wear. If you can’t decide what shape to make, place your hand against the paper, with your wrist touching the folded edge, then trace around your hand. [3] X Research source
For example, if your eyes are 1 inch (2. 5 cm) apart, make the eye hole 1⁄2 inch (1. 3 cm) from the folded edge. You are only drawing 1 eye for now. When you cut and unfold your mask, you’ll have 2 identical eyes! It would be a good idea to measure the height and width of your eye so that you don’t accidentally make the eye hole too small.
After you make the adjustments, trace the adjusted mask onto new paper, then cut it out. If you are tracing the mask into nicer paper, do not fold the nicer paper. Use a craft blade to cut the eye holes out. Make sure that you work on top of a cutting mat.
Don’t fold the cardstock. Simply unfold the mask, set it down onto the cardstock, and trace around it.
You can use a glue stick as well, but it won’t be as durable. Glue sticks tend to peel away over time. For a nicer finish, leave 1⁄2 inch (1. 3 cm) on the left and right side of the mask unglued. You’ll attach the ribbons to these ends. Skip this step if you did not cut a cardstock mask out.
Repeat this step for the other end of the mask too. This will give the mask a slight curve and make it more comfortable to wear. You can also just roll the ends of the mask by hand instead.
Outline the mask and the eye holes with glitter glue or puffy paint. Glue rhinestones or sequins onto the mask. Hot glue some long feathers to the top left or right corner of the mask. Hot glue a trim to the edges of the mask. Glue lace over the mask to give it texture, then decorate the mask with a sequin trim.
The ribbons need to be long enough to wrap around to the back of your head and tie into a bow. About 22 inches (56 cm) for each piece should be long enough. Match the color of the ribbon to the decorations on your mask. For example, if you used lots of gold on your mask, use gold ribbon. If you left 1⁄2 inch (1. 3 cm) on each side of the mask unglued, only punch a hole in the bottom cardstock layer. Leave the upper paper layer intact.
For a fancier dowel, wrap a skinny ribbon around the dowel to create a candy cane effect. Hot glue both ends of the ribbon to the dowel. If you are left-handed, glue the left end of the mask to the dowel. If you are right-handed, glue the right end of the mask to the dowel. If you can’t find a dowel, roll a piece of paper into a thin tube, then glue down the end so that it holds together. Choose 1 option or the other. Don’t do both ribbon ties and a stick.
Scrunch the pieces, then straighten them back out. This will help them “stick” together better. This will create the base of your mask. If you prefer, you can use a full-face plastic mask from the craft store instead. Click here to continue.
The mask should cover your entire face, from hairline to chin.
You can have the mask cover your entire face or just part of it. For example, if you want a half-mask, it can go from your nose to forehead. Aluminum foil can ruin scissors, so use an old or cheap pair for this step. This way, if you accidentally ruin the scissors, it won’t be such a big loss.
The more you overlap the slits, the deeper the curve will be. At this point, it would be a good idea to reinforce the other cut edges (including the eyes) with masking tape as well. This will help make the mask more comfortable.
Make the newspaper strips about 1 to 2 inches (2. 5 to 5. 1 cm) wide and 3 to 4 inches (7. 6 to 10. 2 cm) long. Use smaller strips for small areas, such as the nose, and larger strips for large areas, such as the forehead. Be sure to fold the strips over the cut edges of the mask, including the eye holes. This way, the cut aluminum won’t scratch you. You can cover the mask with plaster cloth instead. Cut the cloth into strips, then soak them to activate the plaster. You only need 2 layers. For a nicer finish, cover the inside of the foil mask with 1 layer of papier mâché as well. Do this after the outer layer dries.
Other details you can add include noses, eyebrows, and mustaches. If you want the mask to be smoother, cover it with another 3 layers of papier mâché, but this time, use paper towels instead of newspaper. If you are using a store bought mask, you can try lifting the plaster mask off of the plastic base.
Use a synthetic taklon paintbrush to apply the acrylic craft paint. Don’t use camelhair or boar bristle. Apply spray paint in a well-ventilated area. Keep the can 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm) from the mask. For a smoother finish, apply a few coats of white gesso. Let it dry, then sand it with fine-grit sandpaper. Anything between 180- and 320-grit will do.
Paint the mask to make it look like an animal, a samurai, or a kabuki mask. Use hot glue or tacky glue to adhere embellishments to the mask, such as rhinestones, feathers, or sequins. Decorate the mask with glitter glue. Alternatively, draw designs with white school glue, then sprinkle glitter on top. Coat a painted mask with glossy acrylic sealer to make it look glazed.
If you prefer a decorative mask, hammer a nail into the wall, then hang the mask from the nail. Use thin ribbon for a fancier mask. Match the color to the embellishments on your mask.
