Keep it simple at first. Geometrical shapes and circles in an uneven pattern are easiest and never clichéd. Space them far enough apart if you’re a beginner—you don’t want the paper to tear when being cut.
Make sure your stencil fits appropriately on your shirt. If it doesn’t, you’ll have to resize or otherwise adjust it.
If you use the taping method, make sure not to tape the stencil to the mesh! Otherwise the stencil might move around when you’re squeegee-ing it.
It’s a little difficult to use more than one color with this method. If you do try it, know that at some point or other, the colors will mix. If you’re okay with that, go for it!
It’s a little difficult to use more than one color with this method. If you do try it, know that at some point or other, the colors will mix. If you’re okay with that, go for it!
Always make vertical strokes. If you make both horizontal and vertical strokes, the paint will clump and be harder to dry and finish. Once you reach the bottom, keep going and scoop the excess paint up the handle to be reused.
Leave to dry. The longer, the better. If you printed onto clothing, then once it is dry you need to put a sheet of greasing or tracing paper over your design and iron it. This seals it, making it wearable and washable.
If you don’t want to use your computer’s imaging program, you can draw one yourself. Just make sure it’s the right size, is dark enough, and won’t transfer to your screen.
Sheer curtain material works well as your screen. Pick a fabric that’s meshy and not quite translucent.
The glue can go as crazy as it wants outside the pattern – just make sure it doesn’t go inside. When you’re finished, wait for it to dry completely. 15 minutes should do the trick.
If you have an ink squeegee, use it to apply your paint to the material. If you don’t, use a sponge paintbrush and hold the screen firmly.
Iron your fabric, following the directions on the bottle of ink or paint you used. Wear away!
